Walking 1000 miles from Lands end to John O'Groats in aid of The Air Ambulance (starts april 7th 2024)

Saturday, 1 March 2025

Day44 Pompeii

How to write up today? 
I guess it's a strange mixture of amazement and disappointment! 
With what should be expected a certain degree of repetition.....
I need to justify all three aspects I think. 
I'll do it in reverse tho just to make the blog flow...
Repetition:-
That's quite simple really, the vast majority of Pompeii is ruined domestic properties so one will always look much like the other. 
Disappointment:-
The enduring feeling really is that in its restoration and preservation the heart of Pompeii ie it's people and their effects have been stripped away leaving the whole considerably less! 
Yes the artifacts should be kept in safe environments but leaving Pompeii with next to no personal items on site takes away any connection to the people who died here, to me history should be felt and seen beyond the few calcified(?) remains of people hereand the ruts worn into the heavy stone paved roadways,but these are nearly all that remain.
The amazing:-
This part is easy, there are plenty of buildings to go wow at!
Starting from Porta Marina near the train station you ascend a steep cobbled road through an arch onto the higher ground Pompeii is built on and to your right are the ruins of the Roman Basilica unlike modern basilica this was a place of trade and debateWhat's left implies an impressive place, what you see all through Pompeii does leave you wondering where the rest of the rubble from the cataclysm ended up? Presumably in new buildings in the surrounding towns..... Nope no lesson has been leant from building on land under a volcano.... Tomorrow blog should show that! 
My route next took me past the gymnasium for youths,naturally you can't go in to this, the mosaic is rather special and the artwork on the walls is close to the best I saw.
Continuing along past brickwork I found interestingAnd one of the drinking troughs that are scattered around Pompeiii reach the Teatro Grande grand theater being a very exact title! Thousands could sit and watch whatever was on show!at the entrance to the theater was one of the few examples of direct connection to the inhabitants of the town...... Graffiti!!no mention of Kilroy being there! 
Next is the Teatro Piccolo aka the odeon! Smaller but equally impressive in its restoration , music and poetry was performed hereentrance stage left is visible through the arch! 
Doubling back on myself through more domestic ruins I pass a tavern with murals topping the facadeoff the road and through a house with laid out garden with water featurei reach the Anfiteatro the amphitheater! Massive and impressiveso much so that Pink Floyd performed here in this bowl! with entry or exit through the tunnels at either end, and a tunnel running around the ring of the arena ..... Now full of Pink Floyd memories, posters etc.... Sort of curious to make such a big thing of a relatively modern event!
Next the Palestra Grande..... The biggest gymnasium in Pompeii at 141x 107mtrs wide it still lives up to its nameand I guess conveniently sited next door is the Necropolis! 
Tho more likely to have held dignitaries than over zealous gymnasts!generations of the same families were laid to rest in these sepulchre likely after cremation.
Through further domestic sites I pass the sanctuary of Apollo into the Terme Stabiane another gymnasium! This one made into a garden? 
But it has connected it's own baths and hypercaust(underfloor heating!)with a rather impressively ornate arched entrance to the gym!with black clouds building and flowing down from Vesuvius I head back through the main forum of Pompei 
hopefully I've made it clear that yes Pompei is definitely an amazing place to visit! 
It's largely my association with metal detecting and finding small personal items lost over the millennia that leaves me with less of an acceptance of what Pompei has become.

Catching a train back to the hostel with a stop at my favourite Italian restaurant to pick up the most unusual pizza! 
Fisherman's pizza ....Took a bit of work eating it! 
But very nice!
And I'm asleep for another night at this lovely hostel!

Wednesday, 26 February 2025

day43 Grabbing at opportunity...

Hostel of the Sun, well even if it's raining outside, the atmosphere inside is sunny! 
Everyone here is friendly and chatty! 
Included in the 15 euros a night is a free breakfast!! Crazy good value!!!
Just sitting down I'm already chatting with a German lad(Jacob) getting ideas of where to visit when I get there, at the next table a group of Argentinian girls are passing around a drink of what looks like mixed herbs floating on boiling water ... The cup has a fixed straw to drink the infusion they pass it over for me to try..... You only die once eh! 
https://youtube.com/shorts/cqS47AyGFGg?si=Iy7MwLPhO-vs1izq

The video is my reaction, it's a drink called Yerba Mate no idea what's in it but if the link doesn't work from the blog I think it tastes like a mixture of black coffee and tea while not a regular flavour it's something I'd try again.... For now at least it made me some more friends!!
I like a challenge and the next was to take on Naples metro at first few glance's it wasn't at all clear until it became glaringly obvious there's a blue line on Google maps looks like it's a metro line..... And I think it is, but the three entrances to the metro I found at Municipo the station it appeared to start from only headed north on the yellow line perseverance and plain luck played a hand.... I took the yellow route up to a Station called Museo (near the archaeology museum) a linking passage to Cavour station and I'm heading where I want to go!
It's a Numismatists shop a way out of town.... I'm glad I made the effort, even tho the front door was locked they were open for business! I'd come looking for my one souvenir from Italy that I'm allowing myself! 
And it's a little cracker that I bought.... A tiny silver sesterces from Republican Rome 211bc! It wasn't cheap but it was cheaper than one I found online.... And that's good enough! 
It's got Roma on the obverseand Castor and Pollux riding horses on the obverse....a beautiful little coin!!
The guys in the shop were very polite and capable of dealing with this Englishman! Much to my benefit!.
Leaving the shop I look up at the hill above me it's face being particularly smooth and in places showing signs of ancient workmanship..... I had to investigate.... Passing under the railway line I find a locked gate and a sign ..... I'd blindly wandered to the entrance to the Tomb of Virgil the poet! No entrance here of course but I spot an old lane running alongside the establishmentparts of the left hand wall must have been off Roman origin surely! 
But the Tomb is to the right and over a wall that the railway passes..... It was worth a look I could just make it Virgil's tomb! where the arch is.... 
Nice random find! 
With my souvenir tucked away safely and a little explore done I head back to the station, debating wether to stop at the museum at the station I change trains at ..... Of course I head for the museum! 
It's raining now so there wouldn't be much option, but I'm glad I did..... If you're ever looking for an excellent museum on the Roman era this is the one!
There were literally hundreds of Roman statues! from emperor'sto dogswith Roman art and mosaic some with Tessera on bigger than a few millimeters! incredible work!!!
In one section named Gabinetto Segretto- cabinet of secrets? There was a collection of what can only be described as Roman porn !
Phalluses everywhere! flying cock pendants small phallic pendants, signs to brothel's comprising of naturally a penis! 
Statues of beastialityif a fawn and a goat can be called such?
This is the Romans for you! 
And then there is the opposite the finest gold work.... Possibly from the Greek era when parts of Italy where Greek colony'sthe most incredible fibulae!!! Puts my finds to shame! 😏
Glasswork and cornets from Pompeii!the list of exhibits is phenomenal!!!
I can't do it justice here! 
So visit if you can. 
Back through the rain to the station and again to the Hostel it's about 5pm I want to relax for a bit before heading out again.
A good chat with my dorm mates then I'm into town to the supermarket I found Sole 365 stocking up for tomorrow, once more into the rain and I'm after a pizza restaurant, finding one tucked down an alley with a few Italian couples sitting eating I realise I've found a locals restaurant.... The real thing... Making my order I stand there feeling a bit awkward in my inability to say anything! 
It was a pleasure to watch the pizza being made, upon receiving it I manage a gesture and one phrase..... pizza maestro!! Suddenly the room changes..... Big smiles and a little laughter.... They appreciate my attempt at a proper thank you! Small victories like this make a day!
I'll be going back again I think! 
For now the pizza is taken to the dorm..... Damn it's fine!!!
I've got a trip booked for Friday and I plans for tomorrow.....I think I'll be extending this stay....🙂