Walking 1000 miles from Lands end to John O'Groats in aid of The Air Ambulance (starts april 7th 2024)

Sunday, 6 April 2025

Day 80 Understanding

I've not as yet had a more beautiful place to stop! The falls the mountains the aurora!! 
Feeling blessed as I leave, I nearly make a bad choice I was considering passing up on a visit to Skogar museum that would have been an awful mistake! 
Nothing as yet has given me a feel for the past in any depth this museum really achieves that! 
I don't think Iceland has been 'modern' for very long a hundred years or so is my guess and prior to that subsistence living relying on boats to brave the often insane seas herefarming of sheep for meat and wool spinning yarn to make the famous jumpersa good selection of spindle whorls here too.
Cattle to provide leather and horn, drinking vessels and cutlery made from horn due to the lack of wood herea spoon former here!... Boil up a strip of horn cut to shape and place in the former close it up and leave the spoon to cool... Who needs plastic! 
Naturally horns for communication over the rugged landscape, calling people in for meals, church... Probably no end of reasons and different callsbut horns obviously carried status.... A horn call was a command not a request. Calling back to the farmstead would bring you to these basic looking homescomprising workshops, kitchens and sleeping quarters where multiple people slept together for warmthyou can see where the side has been cut out to make entry exit easier but once in an ornate bed board is placed to stop anyone being pushed out!........living areas were decidedly more posh,entertainment of visitors, business, music, schooling would be carried out here, all under those rock slate and turf ceilings..... You wouldn't think so from that image! 
People's attire, Sunday best/weddings etc was really fancy! with ornate buckles and brooches that still held onto designs familiar to the ancient Norse transport over land was on foot or horse back, the women folk riding side saddle with more or less ornate sales depending on your wealthand men's more practical saddles imply that the women looked after the homes whilst men attended to the more distant business of daily life. 
Like I say that museum really gave me an impression of how things may have been ....I can always be wrong in my interpretations!
On my way and I get an impression of the distances here.... How often did people travel to meet?a lighter and very much more modern stop I go off the main road to see a cave...... Modern?...... Well modern in its name!it's named the Yoda cave..... Yes after Yoda from start wars!..... Very silly! 
But a good break from the road! 
From the cave to the sea is just black sand all ground up by ancient glacier! 
But this is the start of a lesson in how terrain changes hereTo dormant volcano.... You can caldera in so many peaks as you drive along! through moorlandwith occasional patches of odd rocky terrain.... Little piles of rocks that no doubt tourism has had more prominentlong stretches of round looking rocks covering miles of land that on closer inspection are rocks covered in grey mossplateau with waterfalls, the entire lengths of which have smoothed and eroded by eons of water flow! the last section of road before I stop for the day is a wide valley floor....I call it valley but it's miles across, it really leaves you feeling tiny.... Never a bad experience! It's quite overwhelminglooking back and seeing the huge plateau you'd driven past reduced to slim grey line on the horizon! 
Equally turning forward and seeing the next plateau with the huge Vatnajokull glacier grinding it's way to the level of the land your on my stop for the night is at the base of the hill to the left of the left hand glacier....
As always stop eating sleep become priority.... Leaving this blog to be written later! 

Friday, 4 April 2025

Day 79 on the Ring road!

Leaving base camp today.... Well it sounds good! ..... I'm starting the ring road properly today, warnings of deep snow up north may alter my plans time will tell on that! 
For now I carry on, I'll use South driving campers for info I think. 
After catching up on two days of blogs I'm away the roads are pretty quiet and I anticipate getting more so! 
The first stop is definitely quiet no one here but me at Uridafoss waterfall, that doesn't last for long at least 5 more cars show up as I leave the falls, they claim to have the highest annual flow of water in Iceland I suppose draining from the moorlands will be pretty continuous to enable this claim! 
The moorlands are pretty vast stretching between two ranges of mountains which I can't find names for right now! The northern ones are pure white utterly beautifulthe road towards Vik leads toward the eastern end of the rangewhere if you look to the right ^ of the picture you can see my next objective from miles away!!
Getting closer you can see why....Seljalandsfoss is huge! And you can walk behind it!!!great fun even the inevitable soaking is fun! no regrets even tho it's bloody freezing! You can see how pink I went!! 😄
There's a little gift shop there with some really nice Icelandic jumpers... Nice until you do the cost conversion to pounds £259.00..... no jumpers with that!!!
Into the van heating on with some Icelandic soup from the little cafe.... Really nice .... Warming was needed....I didn't want to know the price! 
Back on the road and route 1 continues north passing a tall slim waterfall called Drifandi....worth a look from the road no obvious path to it and I've no idea of trespass laws here if there are any! 
A planned stop further along comes complete with the tourist tax parking of 10000 Icelandic kroner for a days parking for a visit that will last 20 minutes no more.... No thanks...I park outside the zone. 
The attraction is free it's a cave with a rebuilt porch that was used to store hay in the winter , the roof construction is thick beams with slabs of rock (much like collyweston tiles) sealed with slabs of turfthis leads into the man made cave where the main cave would have been more storage but leading off to the left was a small cave for smithing.this wide angle shot showing both. 
Nice to see but not something I'd pay for.
Further along route 1 is Skogar a small village with two waterfalls and a folk museum, also a fish and chip stall!!! In a really dodgy looking red hut!
As with most things in Iceland it's expensive at £15 for a small portion... The only size! But it does taste damn good!also at Skogar is a campsite right next to the falls!!
This will do for today I think with views like this who can blame me! once again it's a stunning waterfall!!! That you get right up close to! i opted to stay dry this time! 
But it was fun watching those who got close.....
https://youtube.com/shorts/JMuzWp6GFn0?si=SouNIUcPbamcPegE
Back to the van and dinner comes after a few hours of chilling out, finishing off the pork chops... Then just watching Netflix and dozing off. 
I wake in the night to do one of those things that must be done..... Say no more! 
And I'm treated!!! 
To me it was just white but this was my first Icelandic aurora and certainly the first time I've seen the shifting curtains!!!
My phone camera showed the colours luckilyperhaps a stronger aurora will give me visible colours,? I certainly hope so! 

Thursday, 3 April 2025

Day 78 Blowing hot and flowing cold!

If you remember months back in Bilbao I had ear canal infection? Well for the last four days I've had the same! 
This morning I woke up feeling rubbish.... I strongly considered just crashing out for the day, 
I started off slowly sitting up is interesting and in the morning walking is dangerous! 
But like the previous days going from laid down to vertical is where it gets interesting... Once your ears have stabilised it's ok thank the gods!!
And I celebrate with my first fry up in three months.... I'm in heaven!!
And I have energy!! 
This little stove saves the day!
feeling happy and full! I'm on my way, having planned a little last night I realised how many places I needed to visit North past the Kerid crater from yesterday! 
So back up north via routes 1 and 35 past the craters, passing mountains thicker with snow than they'd been yesterdaythrough the moorland terrain with small horses being reared ... I hope for more than tourism! 
I reach my first stop with the tourist tax car park only a few quid in pounds not so bad! 
And I'm at Faxafoss waterfall! 
Easily the biggest waterfall I've ever seen! this is the same river that flows past Selfoss town it's called the Olfusa!
Beautiful and in bright sunshine what more could I want! 
Well continuing north I get my answers!
Going from cold to hot I'm at Geysir as the name suggests this a tourist attraction including geysers! 
Pulling up into the car park you have to pay by app.... Which I can't get to work! 
I pull out of the car park up the road turn left.... All the geysers are visible! There's even the old car park where you can park for free! Bonus!!
Passing steaming bubbling holesThere's only geyser active here the biggest having gone dormant years back! 
But it's pretty impressive!!!.....
https://youtu.be/shWDFkiy1r0?si=ryEblWX-Yu5ZZzaJ

Standing taking a multitude of photos and videos I eventually walk back to the car and get the best photo of the geysers I could hope for!!!!you can pretend to be one of the first to see this with so few tourists visible!!
I'd met a group of Brits with strong Yorkshire accents here earlier, so good to hear that accent!!
And have a conversation... They told me that they'd nearly been snowed in further north so doing the whole thing road may be impracticable.... But we'll see!.
Today's plans require going further up into the mountain plains with stunning views of white clad mountains in the distanceI'm truly skirting wilderness here! 
It calls your soul..... This land is incredible! 
Equally is my stop Gullfoss another waterfall on the Olfusa and the biggest waterfall in Europe! 
How quickly my largest waterfall viewed changes!!!first view looking upstream is incredible but walking along the ravine you can see how deep the ravine gets as the river flows south! upstream you get to see why it's so deep! If hell was water not fire it would be at the base of these falls!such power that words cannot describe. !!!!!
Beauty in the ephemeral too with the right conditions!pleased to catch the rainbow! 
Having driven this far north requires the same drive south to get back to route 1 which will be the artery of this Icelandic adventure! 
The driving on the right is almost intuitive now thank goodness and getting back to Selfoss was so relaxing! 
Back to the same campsite and my aurora app says that there's a 40% chance of seeing the aurora tonight.... Damn those odds it didn't show! Plenty of days yet tho! 
Tonight I put the vans heater on, nice to be toastie all night!

Day77 the land of ice and fire!!

Volcanic eruptions!!! 
Last night the area that I'd been driving through went seismic!!! 
A known and well observed fissure blew! It's closed down the area and all roads to Grindavik and the blue lagoon! 
Sadly I'm too far East and behind a mountain range to see the glow! 
I have to make do with old eruptions today! 
A lazy start the time zones adjustment is only marginal but it makes me want to chill for a bit, most of the morning! 
Still I get going eventually taking routes 42,38 and 39 to the Raufarholsollin lava tube! 
Turning up without appointment worked ok and I only waited 10 minutes to join the 2pm tour! 
If id understood the cost 8900 Icelandic kroner I'd probably have not bothered £49!!!
But how often do you walk through a lava tube? Experience is better than the expense.... Just! 
A short walk and we're in the tube! In a few places the ceiling has collapsed allowing the winters snows to gather in huge cones! Makes for interesting photos!further in the tube waking along a raised platform the floor is thick with ice stalagmites! then passing red rock where the iron rich stone has rusted! 
Passing on further you can see the last layers of volcanic glass that still layer the wallsonto a platform all lights are off and pure darkness.... And silence not even an echo! 
Meaning bats don't live in the tube.. No echo location no flight! 
The only constant life form here is white bacteria in patches of the roofoccasional birds nest in summer and mice... But that's it
Literally that is it! The tour goes no farther! Back over the platformAnd into the ice stalagmites is have a play with using my head torch to illuminated the structure of the ice...rather Easter egg like that last one!
Back through the 400 meters of tunnel that had been created by an eruption over 6 miles away thousands of years ago, and I'm back at the center and into the van.
An expensive short walk!!
Off again along routes 38,1 and 35 to Kerid crater where three craters are in a line the major oneAnd to the south two considerably smaller ones! 
A nice little visit, but after Vesuvius not so long ago it fails to impress! But that's just me! It shouldn't stop anyone with fresher eyes having a look.... It's pretty cheap to visit, so worthwhile!.
Back down route 35 and 1 to Selfoss a small town with a campsite and I'm cooking pork chops and pasta for dinner! Bloody lovely!!
That keeps me warm all night!