Walking 1000 miles from Lands end to John O'Groats in aid of The Air Ambulance (starts april 7th 2024)

Sunday, 23 March 2025

Day 67 not all that glisters is gold!

Got a little side trip planned today! 
I'm off to the Viking spiritual pagan heartland! 
Uppsala! Or more accurately Gamla Uppsala.... But I'll explain that in a bit. 
Breakfast done, once again the egg on sausage on fried bread bloody lovely! 
I leave to get the right train and cut it fine the trains at the platform when I arrive! 
Still no issues! And I'm on the second floor of the train watching the late winter landscape rush by, yellowed old grass, pine and silver birch set amongst cold looking lakes and rivers and heavy rocks throughoutoh yeah did I mention it's overcast and cold, did I also decide to take only a thin fleece jacket? Oh yeah! 
Hard as nails me as I step out from the train.... At least I am for 10 minutes before the temperature seeps through! Hands in pockets and pace up! 
I have a three mile walk to Uppsala Gamla from Uppsala town, it's flat tho so walking is easy and it's good.... I have my energy and my pace back! 
Yeah I'm still cold but as I get within sight of my destination the sun breaks through lighting up Gamla Uppsalas church!also lighting up one of the mounds/barrows... This is special land.
And passing through some woodland to the left in the picture I pass some modern spirituality a place to meditate on the very slight ridge( it's also the biggest ridge in this flat land)
Having a nose there's a modern stone circle there, each stone with at least one painted stone on top and an inscription.....the pearl of god...
the pearls of love.......
Etc etc! There are about 10 of these here.... Bit odd but there you go! 
On I walk getting close to the mounds all fenced off but people still climbing to the top ..... Rude not to! and a chance to put a new selfie stick to use!.... I hate pictures of me!!
The mounds are vasthogen(west mound) mitthogen(middle mound) and osthogen yep..... East mound.... Followed by a fourth mound the Thing..... No not a dodgy 80's horror movie 'thing' is the name in Swedish for a meeting place undoubtedly it lost meaning in English....
Legend has it they contain the pre-Viking kings Aun, Egil and Adils, who appear in Beowulf!
Passing the mound you see a depression in the ground where the dead were cremated before burial there's a curious feel to the place, I've never had anywhere give me the impression of being pushed in the small of my back....odd but peaceful place!in the vicarage garden beyond the fence a female burial was found... High class with grave goods that may have related to Freya, nothing visible from a quick nose over the fenceπŸ™ƒ.
Osthogen contains the remains of another female noble, and at least another 300 mounds are here not that I noticed during my visit! .... The ridge perhaps? It was certainly lumpy! 
The church is pleasant even if it was built on the demolished pagen site.... Christianity for you! Then they had the cheek to move Uppsala and it's Christian cathedral to what was called Ostra Aros now Uppsala ..... Hence the current name being Gamla (old) Uppsala! 
To the left of the church porch is an old rune stone....i wonder if the broken stone had particularly relevance to the dominance of Christianity? 
Inside the church is another collection of pearls! greater in number than at the mediation site.... They are used in smaller form as a rosary! thank Google for the translation!.
It's a modestly painted church which I'll always prefer
With a depiction of Saint George and the dragon in the entrance!
It's a bit faded of course. 
Next door is my first Stave Church.... These used to be common in northern Europe, less so now with the availability of stone and brick. 
I hope to see a few more before my path heads west. 
Now it heads to a cafe near the museum with a meat pie and a horn of mead to wash it down..... I know cheesy! on to the museum and I'm left a bit disappointed at the amount of artifacts that are copies! Yes it's informative but it lacks the physical honesty I want in a museum.... I know with my hobby I have a high expectation for relics. 
At least they had a seriously nice garnet adorned clasp!😍a beautiful drinking glass..... (Not designed to be put) down from the Vendel periodwas in a display with shield, sword etc etc..... Which you can see are copies
I'm glad to have visited here tho like Pompey archaeology and possibly Christianity has taken its detail if not it's soul.
A bus back to New Uppsala and the train back to Stockholm give me time for a brief visit to the waterline to grab a picture of a beautiful sailing ship! before food and eventually the sack claim me!

Saturday, 22 March 2025

day 66 Stockholm souvenir hunting!

Well the hostel has certainly the best cafe I've seen in any hostel I've stayed! Breakfast was so nearly an English one! Fried eggs on Swedish sausage on fried bread..... Bloody lovely!!! I've been dreaming of a full English and this got close! , grapefruit juice and coffee on top and I'm full and away. 
Firstly I'm looking for my souvenir coin, I head for a bus stop to from T-centralen (no idea what the T stands for!) heading to the stop I pass the saint Clara's church a red brick building with towing copper covered spires pretty both inside and out onwards I pass a funky statue right next to the stop where I fail to get on a bus... You can only pay by app or card, ten minutes later I have the app and a three day pass and the next bus! Damn I'm efficient! 
I have two coin shops in close proximity to try.... The first is closed as it's moving location, the second doesn't hold hammered coins, nice guy runs it who recommended another in the town so back on the bus and I'm soon there, and yes he has what I'm looking for a silver hammered coin of Sten Sture regent of Sweden(1512-20) when it was part of the Kalmar union which was a union of pretty much all the Scandinavian countries except Finland.with my souvenir sorted it's nearly lunch, so I wander down to and along the docks of the Malare , I've not said! Stockholm is made up of lots of islands a little like the Venice of the north minus the canals...following the tree line (still can't walk on water!) I reach nice open cafe where I grab lunch of chai latte and randomly picking a Swedish name with no idea of what I've ordered I get a rather nice prawn saladsitting in the blissful sunshine long sleeve shirt arms rolled up amongst Swedes in puffer jackets and woolly hats..... I expected the descendants of Vikings to be tougher!! πŸ˜„
Food down I investigate the building behind me, it's the town hall!definitely a statement building you can see the towers from most places around, with funky featuresspot the Viking! Swedish sea god?
And a beautiful courtyardyou can explore the interior and I probably missed an opportunity here but I'm off to the Viking museum!
On the wrong bus! Gives me a tour of the neighbouring island so I just kick back and enjoy! 
Back on the main island I walk to the right island.... Can't go wrong on foot!
I'm glad I did it's nice to have the time to grab the pictures rather than settling for bad shotslovely building fronts here! 
The bridge to the correct island is quite a way away then a walk to the museum but I find iti think museum is a strong word for it really, it's certainly worth a visit tho for the infotainment! Including a cute ride through a Swedish saga, some relics herenice to see some runes.
One of the staff a tall bear if a man imagine Viking you see him! Turns out he's an archaeologist! The conversation turns to the Pommel i found, and he knows about it! Calling it the most important Viking find in the UK for years!.... That perked me up no end!, he explains that in Sweden the government claim all archaeological finds hence the lack here, but he does point me in the right direction for a museum to visit tomorrow! 
A slow wander back along the track off the islandpassing the water again and time has flown! 
I catch a tram didn't pay, didn't know how! 
Back to the hostel! 
It's good to have had energy again!!
That damn flu really knocked me for six! 
Now to eat sleep n chill....a busy day tomorrow!

Thursday, 20 March 2025

days 64 and 65 not very bloggy!

Very short blog for these two days....

Day 64
Really nothing to report today! 
I just rested and ate and watched crap on Netflix! 
I needed down time I was knackered and starting to question wether I should keep traveling! 

Day 65
Day 64 was well used! I woke up bleary but rested today with signs of energy returning! 
I was at the station nearly two hours early and catching an earlier train, I didn't expect to even be moving at this time as I dozed yesterday!
Random railway pic from leaving Copenhagen!
The train loops over Amager island round the airport there before plunging into a tunnel to go beneath presumably the deepest section of the Oresund before rising again at the southern end of Saltholm island then continuing over Oresund on a bridge, pretty impressive bridge to! Passing over freight ships!before stopping at MalmΓΆ to change trains for Stockholm! And Sweden Country number 9! 
For hours the train travels through flat lands heavily forested with pines and silver birch, occasionally very rocky albeit still flat, over lakes and rivers all with red green and yellow wooden houses and farms and fishing huts...I missed the farm houses.... All of them! Loleventually as we near Stockholm small towns and agricultural land was passed through before reaching our destination of Stockholm.... It seems Sweden is as clean as Denmark! 
Walking past a statue that struck me as very soviet in its design I saw it was dedicated to a social democrat I'm in a socialist country.... It's inevitable!no matter where you are the big man always dominates doesn't he!
Into the Generator same hostel company as the one in Hamburg nicer hostel and area tho! 
I've yet to see a prostitute! πŸ˜„
I've time to relax in the dorm and plan for the end weeks in Europe which are drawing close now! And I'm happy to be travelling on now πŸ™‚
A pint and food at the hostels bar and I'm crashed out again in the dorm doing this! 
Night all !

Day 63 Vi-Kings n queens!

Today is all about the town Roskilde and it threw plenty of surprises at me! 
Out the hostel having had my usual DIY breakfast in bed.....a money saver in most countries so far. 
Then with my day pack on I'm back to the station for the 9.03 train to Roskilde a short trip but one that the interrail pass includes, I can't wait to disclose the complete milage I've covered using the pass! 
With only a 20 minute trip I'm in Roskilde before my planned first stop is open so I'm off straight to the Viking ship museum! 
A short walk through the town to the harbour on the Roskilde fjord through the now expected immaculate danish town.... I could live in this country quite happily! 
With one comedy restaurant name!
Hopefully not denoting the class of it's customers! 😁.... The sanity would suit me tho! 
For once it's actually an overcast day so when I see the fyord, it casts a feeling I expect for a place which would have fought many a war on these waters and the seas and lands beyond...banners flying and shields and axes stowed long ships like this fought from and for these watersthis one is of course a modern reconstruction called the sea stallion it was made to test the building skills employed by the Danish going Viking! And in 2007 it sailed across the north sea and around the UK to Dublin from this very port! 
https://youtu.be/ZqbiJh--wAs?si=Wpww55k3oBUkD59o
At its height Roskilde was the capital of Denmark..... Something I learnt this morning! (Schmetterling!!!!)
And has repelled many an attack the boats and ships in this museum are evidence of that all 6 were found in the fyord where they had been deliberately sunk to for invading ships to runaground on!!this one ^ was a warship it's girth showing that it was designed for speed unlike the more bulky cargo ships...but all were indeed Viking vessels. 
And the restoration/preservation of these was a slow process but historically significant as it showed the construction methods employed and the tools used 1000 years agosimilar methods now being used at the museum to improve the understanding of the skills woods and materials used, for instance the sails of Viking ships were either made of linen or unbelievably wool!!
Both of course treated to keep them dry, wool was indeed a surprise to me .. but they wouldn't have had many options! 
Surprisingly no mention of figureheads on danish boats! 
Though they did have intricately cut metal weather vanes!this one shows the lion of Denmark fighting of a serpent and another mythical beast. 
Following the wind that blows my heels I wander towards the town cathedral, I should probably call it city? 
Through a nice little park with an artificial steam leading me in my desired direction I glimpse the sun glinting between the two spires of the cathedral.... Not one to miss an eye of sauron photo opportunity.....I head towards the main an impressive front doors!I'm not sure of the age but the leaflet claims it was built in the 1200's replacing an earlier church that had replaced a wooden church built by Harald Bluetooth! 
One thing is certain it's a properly royal building! With at least 40 kings and queens laid to rest here! And the next royal death has already been prepared for with a glass tomb built but hidden away from the eye before it's put into use For queen Margerthe the second...only a handle is visible in the glass case to the left, tho in the museum above it's beautiful casket is shown impressive! 
I'll show a few royal tombs now and hope I add the correct royals names!Christian 9th and Queen Louise
Fredrik 8th and Queen Louise

A popular queen name!

Not just royalty here with one Chapel set aside for the Trolle familyOn the door visible to the right is the image of a troll.... The founder of the Trolle family claimed to have killed a troll! Who are we to argue! 
The general architecture of the cathedral is rather beautiful without being excessive pastel hues adorning the walls and ceilings! so much nicer than gilt everything!!!
Back into town I head for my originally first objective pushing through the pretty and as always here clean town square!
My objective had been to get my Danish souvenir which I had intended to be a coin from the Viking age....
Though with better knowledge of where I am and what history has forged here I opt for a silver penny from 1252-59 of king Christopher the first, almost certainly minted within the monastery only a few hundred yards from where I bought it! 
showing Rex on this side...
A perfect representation of my visit!
And an equally pleasing way to leave the city..
Back to Copenhagen I get some groceries and hit the dorm, to relax for the evening.... This turns rapidly into sleep, I have a lot of energy to recoup!