Wow
Callum the same chap who said I could pitch here tonight, just turned up on his way to a party up the road with this for us!
What a great guy!
The wonders, wandering's and whinge's of one dog (Alfie) and his man! (Andy the author!)
Saturday, 9 August 2014
Cheers!
Day-8 what a day!!!!
Today looked in planning to be a short non discript day with an amorphous finish!
Couldn't be more wrong,Here's my best description of it!
We didn't leave the camp site (Dunroaming!) till 10.30 to complete the full days rest we both needed, the site has its own restaurant so we took advantage of a full fried breakfast at a very reasonable £4.95!
Then back to the pet shop from which I'd bought the treats Alfie didn't like, my idea being to buy more and give these to the lady (in the pic! sorry forgot your name!) who runs the place as she'd mentioned she has dogs, but no she was really kind and not only swapped the treats for ones he liked but also gave him some paw wax to protect him! One of those very special moments! Thank you again!
Back to the main road and the loch where we saw a cute 6 foot long house with its own wind turbine! Duck house presumably?!
Over the river shin to pick up the B road cyclists use along Achany Glen and the environment changes completely! From the boggy moorland we've walked through for the last seven days we now enter lush a wooded valley, I'd really missed this level of greenery and trees! of which we've seen so few.
Lots of pretty houses here and we discovered an old ruined mill house with the gearing still partially in place.
All along this Glen we had people waving to us.... Like minor celebrities! Ha!
Along the shin is a nice waterfall which would normally have had facilities but these apparently burnt down.
Leaving the B road we walk along the A836 (just for a change! It's the road from jog!) much wider here busier which Alfie found excessively boring, he slows down when he's bored so just to add a little extra weight and to increase speed I carried him... Much to the amusement of the traffic!
Eventually I got bored of his scheme and let him walk the rest of the way to Bonnar bridge passing a lady unloading peat from a trailer,who's husband Kenny Campbell is famous for carrying a piano up Ben Nevis! And he also walked lejog too!
Walking lejog seems to be a common occupation here as in town I got chatting to a lady outside the grocers named Norma Roche who has also walked it!
I walked on a little to the pub and supper of pan fried duck! Yummy and also cheap!
Over the bridge out of Bonner to Ardgay and past Gledfield house where a groundsman Calum allowed us to pitch by an unoccupied house that Gledfield own.
Day-7 to Lairg and rest!
Waking up to the sound of the midges was concerning! So a cold breakfast was eaten inside the tent and everything packed into the pack before braving the swarm!
Glad I bought my midge head net with me very much needed as I took the tent down even with smidge!
As ever once the packs on and your ten yards down the road you leave them behind, relief!
No rain this morning but it is overcast, so once again good walking weather, the road we're following eventually joins with the road to Durness bringing back memories of last year's trip to Cape Wrath. With that road behind we head on into Lairg with its hydro electric dam, seen in the distance in the pic, which also shows the town war memorial.
Up to the campsite for our first 24 hours rest, with some reprovisioning and lots of sleep being the order of the day!
Thursday, 7 August 2014
Day-6 first injuries
After yesterday's push to get to Altnaharra we're both in pain this morning, Alfie with a sore pad which his boots soon sorted and me with a muscle or tendon strain in my ankle no quick fix there just hobble on!
And that's just what we did, on the same road all day.going out of Altnaharra with Ben Klibreck impressively catching the sun on our right the aches and pains were easily ignored and the steady stream of lejog cyclists heading north allowed for a stream of friendly greetings :-)
Not much notable really this morning so getting to the Crask Inn at midday for pint of black isle red kite ale was very welcome!
Ale drunk we headed along the road a bit to make and eat some sandwiches with views of a fine range of mountains to the west sadly couldn't identify any.... Just too many up here!
The road continued through the desolation of North Dalchork forest where the tree fellers had been busy, never a nice thing to see, juxtaposed to this was the arrival of Janet and Dave two lejog cyclists who passed us earlier in the week very friendly people (see pic) who Alfie soon had rubbing his belly!,they continued of having completed their trek to cycle back to Inverness to catch a plane home.
Immediately after they had gone Fay and Robert Crawford stopped their car to say hello having passed us three times in the last week! Very kindly they donated £5 to the charity! Lovely people.
Carrying on south to Rhian bridge to get Alfie a drink then on past the next, where with evening approaching we set up the tent as a heavy storm lashed us! Once the rain had passed we were besieged by billions of midges! Really nasty little creatures these and the scourge of the Highlands!
Suitably prepared with the best deterrent 'smidge' which worked very well inside the tent though the swarms outside didn't get the hint!
While settling down for the evening a car pulled up to inquire if Alfie was OK, confused by this I assured them he is fine, before they clarified that they had earlier seen us with Dave and Janet where Alfie had been rolling around on Daves feet. They had been concerned that he had been run over and wanted to make sure he was OK! People really can amaze me still!
Wednesday, 6 August 2014
Day-5 A change of plans
The day started overcast but dry no complaints here, so fed and packed we headed south past the hill and foundations of Dun Viden Broch,which in its day must have been imposing! Today in the dull grey light it just managed a little mysterious!
Carrying on the rain started a fine but persistent drizzle that required waterproofs, donning these in the shelter of an old farm chimney stack we carry on to Rhifail and much to the chagrin of the folk of Skelpick we made it back to the road! This carried us easily to Skail where you can see Alfie Inspecting a neolithic burial! (he passed it Jim!) fascinating spot and in the newly returned sunshine incredibly peaceful. The same can't be said about Alfie whenever sheep are within sniffing distance!
The road carries on for miles and at lunch we fill my water container in the river... Very clear water and I'm told a renowned salmon fishing river,all the same I purified the water and cooked up coffee and pasta, while doing so a car pulled up to say hello, apparently they had also seen me in my wanderings along the north coast! Fame at last! in this case I got a second helping, turning on my phone I received a message from radio Northampton saying they would like to do another over the phone interview today!. Packed and pushing on we round the corner to loch Naver avoiding my planned route via the river Mallat, the reason for this is my route took us off path through boggy terrain and after the mornings rain not worth the risk!
The phone rang at the appointed time and a rather surreal interview was had with me in the middle of nowhere chatting away! Can only be good for the charity.
Walking along the Naver with great views of the mountains only being spoilt by swarms of Scottish midges attacking we stopped at caravan site for a quick drink then rather than stop we upped a few gears and raced to the hotel at Altnaharra for dinner tonight, and a use of there bunkhouse to avoid the midges!
A good twenty mile day with plenty of interesting history!
Tuesday, 5 August 2014
Day 4- changing our ways
Firstly I should add a bit to last nights blog that being that we've left our first county going from caithness into Sutherland as the sign said we entered Mackay country!.not something monumental but crossing County borders becomes important when your on foot!
Back to today, leaving behind an excellent campsite and company we continue west out of town, passing an old chap whose house is festooned with vote yes for independence flags and stickers, stood around chatting for a good ten minutes, then made to leave at which point he uttered his goodbyes in the form of 'Good folk are scarce!' by his tone it was a complement, which struck me as a great way to say good bye! People can be so fascinating!
Back onto our old friend the A836 which claimed to have had eu grants to improve it and the going was certainly improved with nice wide edges for us wanderers to dodge traffic, today the roads character definitely changed with plenty of Hills so the going become tougher and by midday I was yawning! Quickly I recognised this for the sugar low that it was, and after eating a good hand full of jelly babies to boost my sugar decided I must pay more heed to my bodies needs... Takes a while to get back in the swing of the trail.
Closing on Bettyhill we come to a viewpoint with spectacular mountains rearing up to the west great to see and only slightly sad that my route won't pass through them. Into the village itself and and tea stop was had at the tourist information centre, much needed.
Up the hill and provisions were taken on board to keep us going for the next three days, the pack is ridiculously heavy now! With a new loaf of bread perched on top we head downhill passing a family just leaving there home on an errand, one daughter pipes up were you in Thurso yesterday, nodding the affirmation, she nods 'i thought I'd seen a walker with bread on top of his rucksack!' certainly one of the oddest things I've been recognised for!
Very warm by now and Alfie is lagging behind, luckily there's a simple cure for this....a good dunking! Into the river Naver he goes! And comes out instantly revitalised... Thankfully!
At this stage we've finally stopped walking west and have started walking south along the Strath Naver Valley, also said goodbye to the A road and are walking along a tiny B road busy with manicly driven hay carts! Loud enough to dodge. The road itself goes to a quiet hamlet called Skelpick, the occupants of which don't appear to like walkers, on three different occasions people stopped to tell me that this road is a dead end, and each looking a bit miffed when I pointed out that there is track to a place called Rhifail at the end of their (single street) village... Nod and smile!
And it's by that track that I've pitched for tonight. And where this pic of Alfie was taken
Monday, 4 August 2014
Day 3- Meeting of ways!
After a good night at Thurso campsite we were packed and saying our goodbyes to those we'd met, in good time to head into town for supplies, as so often in the past the goods required were purchased from the co op,always a welcome sight!!
The long drag uphill out of town took us past the architecturally pleasing local hospital, which appears to be am old Manor with fine Scottish towers!
Out of town the B road is a long 10 mile stretch to Raey famous for the Dounreay Powerstation, only a few things were worth note on this stretch firstly an old school or chapel in ruins which still had its bell now fallen in the bell tower! Secondly was the lack of traffic much needed after the a road yesterday, last but far from least was meeting a German girl named Marrissa who has been cycling for three months! Starting in the south of Spain she plans to finish in the Orkney's having travelled six thousand kilometers! What an achievement!
Into Raey and I'm sitting having lunch at the war memorial appropriately on the anniversary of the first world war starting. While I'm lunching who should pull up but Ruth en-route to Cape wrath for a second visit.... So tea was had :-).
Out of the village and up a long long Hill we for the first time properly leave the road! On (or rather through) a very indistinct track over the boggy moorland with Alfie making the most being off of his lead,a very happy chap!.
Coming off the moorland I notice a campsite on the opposite side of the valley so continuing along our track to a bridge over the river Halladale it was rather disconcerting to find the bridge closed and condemned! Decision time long walk around it or throw caution to the wind? Caution was thrown and we crossed the bridge.... To me it seemed pretty sound, I've certainly crossed worse! Blooming health and safety!
Up to the road with the beach at Melvich bay to our right we walk back to the campsite which handily had a pub attached, booked in and setting up tent next to two other small tents, we find the occupants to be Emily Walker (!) who is walking south to North and her father who joined her at Fort William, Emily completes her epic in three days so visit her blog and congratulate her please! Emjwalker@blogspot.com.
A pint and meal later and I'm just about ready to go sleep though my aching thighs may keep me awake tonight! Nothing to worry about just a phase of trekking that you have to go through!
No picture tonight as data is very weak, may struggle getting this out!
Sunday, 3 August 2014
Day 2 Ha to Perfection!!
The Ha in the title refers to a the sea mist that covered the land this morning! Walking away from the last night's finish point has quite ethereal! Only seeing short distances and pretty much in monochrome! The only colour being the red of my mate Ruth and her car!.
This was soon left behind and the first miles of tiny road threaded through boggy farm country and past one unsociable farmer who refused to even acknowledge our existence! ........... Fill in your own words here!
Still we plodded on and the sky started to lighten as we passed a farm guarded not particularly well, by two border collies who both turned tail at my command!
Coming off of the b roads and on to the a836 near Barrock we headed to Dunnet where a local gun maker sported the Queen mothers coat of arms and badge of appointment!,out of Dunnet and straight to the beautiful beach, where the sun broke through as we sat down for sandwiches!
Three kilometers of walking the sands and we reach Castletown where a tea was bought in a local shop. Sitting on a wall to drink this I enquired of a local and my old mate JP if there was a coastal path to Thurso as my planning had indicated only an intermittent track, turns out there isn't so 7 kilometers of straight A road were started. Leaving the village a chap and his son (in a go kart) asked about the walk and a pleasant chat was had!
The road out required lots of traffic dodging but the view to the sea alleviated this.
Into Thurso past some castellated gates and over the river of the same name, following the coast took us past surfers hitting the waves and more views to the Orkney Islands until we reached today's destination camp site at 3.30, now making use of the WiFi here to send this blog.... A great day!....which leads to the perfection in the title!
Saturday, 2 August 2014
Day 1 And we're off!
We got to John O'groats about 4.30 pm and after doing the sign post photos headed west at 5pm. obviously not a long days walk! But planning required a 4 mile first leg (don't ask why!), a short path along the cliff took us down to a small beach where both Alfie and myself followed the ritual of dipping our toes in the sea and picking up a small rock to carry south.
Heading inland slightly we pick up the road west passing through the sparse boggy farmland of the far north until we reach a rather gothic looking church and graveyard, this being at most easterly point of Gills bay, who's pier (our destination for the end of the short walk) hosted a dramatic looking sunken ship slowly rotting into the sea, looking north the weather is still clear enough to see the Orkney Islands, quite a relief considering the weather report!
Day 1 And we're off!
We got to John O'groats about 4.30 pm and after doing the sign post photos headed west at 5pm. obviously not a long days walk! But planning required a 4 mile first leg (don't ask why!), a short path along the cliff took us down to a small beach where both Alfie and myself followed the ritual of dipping our toes in the sea and picking up a small rock to carry south.
Heading inland slightly we pick up the road west passing through the sparse boggy farmland of the far north until we reach a rather gothic looking church and graveyard, this being at most easterly point of Gills bay, who's pier (our destination for the end of the short walk) hosted a dramatic looking sunken ship slowly rotting into the sea, looking north the weather is still clear enough to see the Orkney Islands, quite a relief considering the weather report!
Friday, 1 August 2014
On the way up!
After a days easy travelling north with a stop at Lindisfarne to sight see the Holy isle, we've made camp at Perth in a very familiar place, Noahs ark camp site. where Alfie and I camped on our Lejog in 2010!!!
Not a lot has changed here and while the weather holds we have a great view of Glen Shee in the distance where we walked en route to Aberfeldy last time!
Sadly the weather is looking anything but good with heavy rain and gales due for Saturday and Sunday..... Them's the breaks!
Even now the walk doesn't feel real! But I'm sure after Sundays gales reality will hit!
Thursday, 31 July 2014
Radio interview!!!!
Just a quick blog before the off tomorrow.
Yesterday, along with Rachel from accommodation concern, I took part in a live radio interview on radio Northampton!
Here's the link to the show, my bit starts about and hour and fifteen minutes in at 3.15pm
http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p0230374
The will only last for a few days sadly.... So I'll try and do a recording of it for future cringing! ;-)